Weekly Fashion Highlights | Glenn Martens is Maison Margiela's new Creative Director, Sabato De Sarno exits Gucci...

The fashion industry is undergoing profound transformations, marked by a notable shift in creative leadership. Several directors are exiting due to subpar performance, while others are embarking on new ventures within various fashion houses. Delve into REVERSIBLE's top five highlights from the fashion news this week.

Glenn Martens has taken over as Creative Director of Maison Margiela

Recently, the Italian OTB Group has made a notable shift in the fashion landscape, appointing Glenn Martens as the new Creative Director of the prestigious Maison Margiela, succeeding John Galliano. In a groundbreaking move, Martens will also retain his position as Creative Director of Diesel, establishing an unprecedented dual leadership role within the fashion sector.

As a visionary designer, Glenn Martens has captured attention for his innovative deconstruction of denim and avant-garde silhouettes. His simultaneous stewardship of both Maison Margiela and Diesel is poised to inject fresh energy and creative dynamism into these brands, guiding them toward emerging fashion trends. We look forward to the innovative surprises and brilliance that Glenn Martens will undoubtedly introduce to the fashion industry in his dual roles!

Sabato De Sarno exits Gucci

Gucci has officially revealed that Sabato De Sarno has departed from his role as creative director, just two years after his appointment. The Gucci Design Studio is set to unveil the FW25 collection during Milan Fashion Week on February 25. De Sarno took on the role of creative director for Gucci in 2023, tasked with the significant challenge of transforming the brand's identity.

In his tenure, Sarno aimed to shift Gucci's stylistic approach, moving away from Alessandro Michele's renowned maximalism to a more understated luxury aesthetic. However, the brand has struggled to keep pace with its competitors, witnessing a decline in performance over the last year. In Q3 of 2024, Gucci's sales plummeted by 25%, dropping to 1.64 billion euros, which adversely affected its parent company, Kering Group. Gucci has stated that a new creative director will be announced in the near future.

Calvin Klein Makes a Comeback at New York Fashion Week

After a lengthy hiatus, Calvin Klein has made its long-awaited return to New York Fashion Week, with Veronica Leoni debuting her first collection as the brand’s inaugural female creative director. With an impressive background that includes stints at The Row, Jil Sander, and Phoebe Philo’s Celine, as well as her own label Quira, Leoni’s expertise is evident.

Her showcase highlighted her exceptional tailoring prowess through draped blouses, oversized trench coats, and alluring fitted dresses characterized by dynamic textures. Leoni effortlessly combined various materials including cashmere, satin, brushed cotton, and dry gabardine. A notable piece, a corset-style dress, was designed to appear as though its back was peeling away, beautifully paired with a scarf jacket. The collection exhibited a seamless blend of fluid tailoring and relaxed aesthetics, setting the stage for a fresh chapter in Calvin Klein's legacy.

Gosha Rubchinskiy Steps Down as Yeezy Creative Director

Gosha Rubchinskiy, the creative director of Yeezy, has officially stepped down, marking a significant shift in the brand’s trajectory. Rubchinskiy, known for blending Russian street culture with high fashion, joined Yeezy in 2016 and quickly became a pivotal figure in redefining streetwear.

While the specific reasons for his departure remain undisclosed, industry analysts suggest that it may stem from creative divergences between Rubchinskiy and Kanye West, or perhaps Rubchinskiy’s increasing commitment to his own independent label. In recent months, Kanye's vision for Yeezy has undergone significant transformation, potentially leading to a rift in their artistic collaboration. Furthermore, Rubchinskiy’s burgeoning personal brand and recent partnerships may have played a role in his decision to transition.

Rubchinskiy’s departure places Yeezy at a critical juncture. The pressing question is how the brand will adapt to this shift while preserving its innovative spirit. It remains uncertain whether Yeezy will appoint a new creative director or if Kanye West will assume greater control over the brand's creative vision. Despite potential changes in design leadership, Yeezy's robust cultural foundation and dedicated fan base are likely to ensure its continued prominence in the fashion landscape.

Haider Ackermann’s First Capsule Collection Drives Sales Growth for Canada Goose

Canada Goose, the renowned Canadian luxury outerwear brand, has experienced a significant sales boost following the release of its highly anticipated capsule collection in collaboration with Haider Ackermann. The partnership, marking the Belgian designer’s first-ever capsule for the brand, has captured the attention of fashion enthusiasts worldwide, blending Canada Goose’s heritage of craftsmanship with Ackermann’s avant-garde, tailored aesthetic.

The capsule collection, which features a selection of sleek, high-performance outerwear, is designed to appeal to both fashion-forward individuals and those seeking functional luxury. Ackermann, known for his sophisticated and often experimental approach to design, has infused Canada Goose’s signature warmth and durability with a distinct European flair, offering pieces that are both stylish and highly functional. The collection includes reimagined versions of Canada Goose’s iconic parkas and coats, incorporating luxurious materials and bold silhouettes.

Since the release, Canada Goose has seen a noticeable surge in sales, particularly in its high-end markets. The collaboration has resonated deeply with consumers who value both luxury and practicality, further cementing Canada Goose’s status as a go-to brand for winter outerwear with a fashionable edge. The capsule has also drawn attention to the brand’s ability to push creative boundaries while remaining rooted in its core commitment to performance.

The Haider Ackermann capsule collection is expected to be a game-changer for Canada Goose, helping the brand expand its reach in the high-fashion space while maintaining its commitment to producing top-tier, functional outerwear. As the collaboration continues to captivate fashion lovers globally, it is clear that Haider Ackermann’s unique vision has played a pivotal role in driving Canada Goose’s sales growth and solidifying its presence as a luxury brand.

Editor: Juham Lin, Yu Yuan.