ASSOULINEDoha Modern

In the middle of Souq Waqif, a giant golden thumb by French sculptor Cesar Baldaccini rises from the ground. An hour away, the East-West/West-East monumental public land art installation featuring four steel plates by American sculptor Richard Serra stand across a kilometer of open desert. On the Corniche, the royal camel guard passes lines of luxury cars while the towers of West Bay glitter behind. To the visitor, it is a thrilling sight. To the local, it is any other day. Doha Modern is a portrait of a capital where the ancient and the modern collide. Writing from within the region, Nicola Chilton guides readers on a journey through the city’s senses: the fragrance of bakhoor and frying luqaimat, the cry of falcons behind the souk, the heat coming off the dunes at noon. Beneath the skyline lies a far longer story. Neolithic carvings of dhows and fish at Al Jassasiya. A pearling economy that sent divers into the Gulf for months while those on shore waited for their return. Then oil, independence, and a transformation that brought I.M. Pei out of retirement and Jean Nouvel to the desert rose. The title takes you takes you through the present, past, and future, from the bisht placed on Lionel Messi’s shoulders at Lusail in 2022 to the museums still rising along the Corniche. This is not a survey of a city but an encounter with one, where image and word together place readers inside its light, its heat, and its rhythms, and leave them with the sense of having been there. Across souk and sea, desert and skyline, Doha Modern reveals a city unlike anywhere else on earth.