Weekly Fashion Highlights | Jonathan Anderson Takes Helm At Dior Men...

Following Jonathan Anderson's departure from Loewe, speculation regarding his next venture has been abundant. Now, these speculations have been substantiated: the designer, who garnered significant acclaim at Loewe, has been appointed as the creative director of Dior Men. In the context of designer transitions within the LVMH Group, Jean Paul Gaultier's recent appointment of Dutch designer Duran Lantink as the brand's new creative director signifies more than a mere job transition; it embodies a resurgence of avant-garde ethos at the forefront of luxury fashion. Since Gaultier's farewell show in 2020, the brand has maintained its creative momentum through a dynamic collaboration model, and Lantink's official role heralds a shift from this "fluid creation" to a more stable paradigm. With a bold articulation of marginal culture, sustainable materials, and body politics, he is poised to infuse Gaultier with a fresh wave of "avant-garde vigor."

In line with this trend, a group of brand behaviors advocating "autonomy" and "reconstruction" are taking place: AMBUSH founder Yoon Ahn repurchased all ownership of the brand, Salomon continued to break the circle of the fashion industry through collaboration strategies. These signals splice a clear trend: in the transformation period of the global fashion ecosystem, creators and brands are redefining "control" and "right to express".

Jonathan Anderson Takes Helm At Dior Men

Jonathan Anderson, who departed from Loewe in March after an impressive eleven-year tenure, has been appointed as the artistic director of Dior Men, succeeding Kim Jones, who resigned in January. Anderson is set to present the upcoming Dior Menswear show on June 27, as announced by LVMH chairman and CEO Bernard Arnault during the group's annual shareholder meeting.

Anderson's journey began when he was named creative director of LVMH-owned Loewe in September 2013, at which point he was a burgeoning designer with a nascent personal brand. Throughout his time at Loewe, he has consistently delivered remarkable achievements, characterized by exceptional fashion shows, innovative collaborations, and striking campaigns. Loewe has ascended to become one of the most sought-after brands in the global market, with projections indicating sales growth from approximately 230 million euros in 2014 to an estimated 1.5 billion to 2 billion euros by 2024.

Can Anderson replicate his enchanting success at Dior Men? Like many of its contemporaries, Dior has felt the impact of the luxury sector's downturn and global economic instability. According to LVMH, Dior's sales in the first quarter of this year fell slightly below the average of the group's fashion and leather goods department. Nevertheless, in comparison to Loewe, Dior remains a more substantial super brand in terms of both scale and sales performance. Anderson's career trajectory reflects a visionary and skilled design aesthetic, positioning him well to weave Dior’s distinctive DNA into his creations. A new chapter for the brand is poised to unfold.

Jean Paul Gaultier Names Duran Lantink As New Creative Director

Following a series of innovative collaborations with guest designers, the Jean Paul Gaultier fashion house has embarked on a transformative journey by appointing Duran Lantink as its new creative director. This marks the inaugural official appointment of Lantink to this prestigious role since the founder's farewell show in 2020. Lantink has garnered acclaim for his audacious and thought-provoking collections, frequently utilizing upcycled and padded materials to create sculptural, surreal garments that amplify form while abstracting function. In 2024, he was honored with the LVMH Prize’s Karl Lagerfeld Award, and in March of this year, he also received the Woolmark Prize.

His developmental trajectory challenges conventional industry norms and often interrogates the exclusionary paradigms prevalent in the fashion realm. Lantink's forthcoming FW25 collection has generated significant buzz, showcasing imaginative pieces such as animal print flared trousers, reimagined Barbour jackets, and elastic prosthetic breasts. His inaugural ready-to-wear collection is set to debut in Paris during the RTW women’s fashion week in September, with his first Haute-Couture collection scheduled for January 2026.

Gaultier has characterized him as "the new enfant terrible of fashion," and while numerous fashion houses gravitate towards traditional and predictable aesthetics, Jean Paul Gaultier continues to embrace the avant-garde. This strategic choice signifies a return to creative continuity for the brand, while preserving the avant-garde essence that has been integral to its visual identity since inception.

Ambush Founder Regains Full Ownership Of Brand

In April 2025, the pioneering fashion brand AMBUSH ushered in a major turning point. Brand co-founder and creative director Yoon Ahn officially repurchased the brand's equity from OTB Group and regained full ownership of AMBUSH. This move means that the brand will enter a more independent and flexible development stage.

AMBUSH was founded in 2008 and was initially known for its experimental jewelry design. It then expanded to ready-to-wear, accessories and multi-field joint cooperation, and gradually grew into a representative brand of the new generation of trendy culture. In 2017, AMBUSH became one of the finalists of the LVMH Prize, further establishing its position in the international fashion industry. In 2020, Italian luxury group OTB invested in AMBUSH to help its international layout.

Last Friday, Ambush brand managers Yoon Ahn and Verbal recently repurchased the majority stake of the brand from New Guards Group, but the details of the transaction have not been disclosed. In 2020, Italian fashion brand management group New Guards Group acquired and led the development of Ambush. This repurchase not only shows Yoon Ahn's confidence in the future development of the brand, but also reflects her determination to regain control of the balance between creativity and business. In a statement, Yoon said: "I hope AMBUSH will become a cultural platform where people can express themselves freely and continue to explore more possibilities beyond fashion." With Yoon taking over the brand again, the future development direction of AMBUSH is highly anticipated. Whether it is returning to the local cultural roots of Tokyo or further expanding its global influence, this "return to autonomy" operation may once again inspire the brand's creativity and experimental spirit.

MM6 Maison Margiela x Salomon Spring 2025 Collaboration Returns

Following the well-received collaboration in previous seasons, MM6 Maison Margiela once again joins hands with Salomon to launch a new 2025 spring joint series. This series continues Margiela's deconstruction aesthetics and Salomon's functionalism, cleverly combining fashion language with off-road technology to create footwear items that are both avant-garde and practical. This season's highlights include the XT-4 and Cross Low shoes in new colors: metallic silver, ice blue, black and white contrasting colors, etc., which are full of visual tension. While retaining Salomon's iconic non-slip outsole and stable support system, it incorporates MM6-style asymmetrical design and deconstructed lines, which are avant-garde and comfortable, and are not inconsistent with daily wear or outdoor activities.

It is worth noting that Salomon has frequently carried out cross-border cooperation with fashion brands in recent years, from COMME des GARÇONS, Boris Bidjan Saberi to Our Legacy and MM6. Its joint strategy shows a clear "high-low mix and match" idea: on the one hand, it maintains the core competitiveness of professional sports background, and on the other hand, it uses the fashion discourse system to enter the fashion circle and enter the vision of young consumer groups.

By continuously cooperating with designer brands with experimental styles, Salomon has successfully completed the "out-of-circle" of its brand image and achieved the transformation from niche functional shoes to fashion hard currency. It can be said that such a joint name is not only a single market attempt, but also part of Salomon's brand strategy.

Hermès Surpasses LVMH In Market Value To Become The World's Largest Luxury Goods Group

In April 2025, the luxury industry ushered in a critical moment. After the latest financial report was released, the share price of French luxury brand Hermès soared, and its market value once surpassed LVMH, becoming the world's most valuable luxury group, which attracted widespread attention from the market.

According to the latest 2024 financial data released by the two groups, Hermès is still far behind LVMH in terms of revenue scale, but it has surpassed LVMH in profitability and investor confidence with its super high profit margin and brand premium ability. In 2024, Hermès' revenue increased by 16% year-on-year, net profit reached 4.6 billion euros, and gross profit margin reached more than 72%, which performed better than market expectations; while LVMH maintained its leading position in multiple categories, some business segments (such as wine and fashion accessories) slowed down due to weak consumption. This difference highlights the fundamental difference in the business strategies of the two groups. Hermès has always adhered to the ultimate boutique route, strictly controlled production and distribution systems, and maintained brand scarcity; while LVMH adopted an M&A-driven expansion model, with a wide brand matrix and strong risk resistance, but also faced integration and growth pressure.

The crossover in market value was interpreted by the industry as a signal of "structural changes in high-end consumption": consumers are increasingly pursuing brand value and spiritual belonging, rather than just logos and communication. Therefore, Hermès' "less is more" strategy is gradually winning long-term market recognition.

Editor: Juham Lin, Yu Yuan, Clarance Wang