Weekly Fashion Highlights | Lucie and Luke Meier exit Jil Sander, A$AP Rocky is Ray-Ban’s first Creative Director...
The perpetual reshuffling within the fashion industry underscores the escalating challenges faced by contemporary designers in the role of creative director. The Jil Sander FW25 show at Milan Fashion Week marked a poignant farewell for creative directors Lucie and Luke Meier, while David Koma made his debut with Blumarine at the same Fashion Week. As some creative leaders depart, others step in, signaling a new chapter in the ever-evolving narrative of fashion. From prestigious luxury houses to emerging designer labels, the industry is witnessing an unprecedented transformation in creative leadership. Stay connected with REVERSIBLE for the latest updates and insights into these dynamic shifts.
Lucie and Luke Meier Exit Jil Sander And Presented Their Farewell Show
Jil Sander's FW25 collection showcased at Milan Fashion Week marked a poignant farewell for creative directors Lucie and Luke Meier. Shortly after the show, the brand released a succinct statement confirming the conclusion of their collaborative tenure: "Jil Sander and its Creative Directors Lucie and Luke Meier have mutually decided that this collection would be the last of their collaboration." The brand has yet to disclose their successors.
It was fitting that their final showcase was described by the Meiers as “a bright metaphor of love.” The runway was enveloped in dim lighting, accentuated by deep black curtains, allowing the designers’ creations to command the spotlight. The collection featured striking black spikes and vibrant blue shearling coats, alongside flowing kilts, artisanal alpaca knits, and an array of luxurious fabrics including velvet, taffeta, silk, and sequins. The interplay of these materials created an elegant tension, underscoring Lucie and Luke’s expertise in manipulating diverse textures.
As Jil Sander’s longest-serving creative directors, the Meiers have cultivated a distinctive design identity over their eight-year stewardship, all while honoring the brand’s rich heritage. In an industry characterized by constant shifts in leadership, the role of creative director is increasingly challenging for contemporary designers. Speculation suggests that Luke and Lucie may transition to LOEWE, with current creative director Jonathan Anderson anticipated to depart soon. However, no official confirmations have emerged regarding these rumors. Additionally, former Proenza Schouler designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez are reportedly in discussions for the position, further fueling the fashion rumor mill. The future for all parties involved remains uncertain, but stay tuned to REVERSIBLE for the latest developments.
A$AP Rocky Is Ray-Ban’s First Creative Director
A$AP Rocky has made history as Ray-Ban's inaugural creative director, a role that positions him at the helm of Ray-Ban Studios. Established in 2016, Ray-Ban Studios aims to forge connections between the brand and the artistic community, enhancing Ray-Ban's cultural relevance. Until now, the Studios have not ventured into product design. With a robust network in the fashion industry, A$AP Rocky, a former member of A$AP Mob, leads the AWGE design studio and debuted his fashion label, American Sabotage, at Paris Fashion Week.
His initial endeavor for Ray-Ban, the Blacked Out collection, is set to launch this spring, showcasing reimagined Mega Icons with ultra-black lenses and gold-plated accents. Furthermore, Rocky will spearhead advertising campaigns and contribute to the revitalization of Ray-Ban retail locations. The anticipation surrounding this collaboration raises the question: will A$AP Rocky's partnership with Ray-Ban yield innovative surprises? Only time will tell.
Nike x Riccardo Tisci Returns With First Bag Collaboration
Since 2018, Nike's collaboration with designer Riccardo Tisci has been on hiatus until this year, when the two sides resumed their collaboration. The first product was not the familiar sneakers, but a $500 leather handbag called "The Mercer Bag.” Part of Nike's SS25 collection, the Italian-made bag is a more understated take on Tisci's work during his tenures at Givenchy and Burberry. It's crafted from solid black pebbled leather, with the Nike logo emblazoned on the front flap in a subtle debossed pattern, while Tisci's metal RT wordmark is affixed to the corner of the bag and strap.
The collaboration between Nike and Tisci commenced in 2014, marked by the launch of several striking footwear designs. Their inaugural project involved a reimagining of the iconic Air Force 1. This was followed by the introduction of the Air Cast 1, NikeLab Dunk Lux High, and an array of Flyknit models. Their final partnership culminated in 2018 with the release of the Air Max 97 and Air Force 1 High. Recently, Nike has broadened its horizons beyond conventional sportswear, exemplified by the NikeSKIMS collaboration with Kim Kardashian, which we highlighted last week. Additionally, Nike has previously teamed up with French designer Jacquemus to unveil a handbag collection. The debut of the Mercer handbag indicates that Nike is likely strategizing a more expansive approach to luxury accessories, reflecting a keen awareness of evolving market dynamics and consumer preferences.
David Koma's First Blumarine Runway Show
On the highly anticipated Milan Fashion Week stage, David Koma made his debut runway show as the Creative Director for Italian fashion brand Blumarine. This announcement has sparked widespread attention in the fashion industry. Renowned for his sculptural tailoring and strong aesthetic sense, David Koma has built a reputation in the fashion circle, having previously served as Creative Director for Mugler and established his eponymous fashion brand in London. His addition to Blumarine promises to infuse the brand with new vitality and creativity.
Koma's inaugural showcase paid tribute to the allure of Italian cinema icons. The collection exuded glamour infused with a touch of gothic sensuality. The initial segment featured a palette of black, showcasing lace pirate tops, corsets, and sheer tights adorned with diamond butterflies at the crotch, reflecting the brand's signature Y2K aesthetic under the creative direction of Nicola Brognano. However, it was the striking vermilion pieces that truly captured the essence of Koma's debut, epitomizing the Italian film star influence, with sumptuous fur embellishing ribbed red skirts and punk-inspired corset dresses complemented by oversized fur coats. This marked the dawn of a new era for Blumarine, signaling a bold evolution in its narrative.
Stella McCartney Regains Independent Operational Rights
Recently, significant news broke in the fashion world as the British designer brand Stella McCartney announced that it will officially repurchase the minority stake held by LVMH Group. This repurchase signifies Stella McCartney's detachment from LVMH Group and the reacquisition of independent operational rights for the brand. This decision not only underscores Stella McCartney's commitment to brand independence but also grants her a broader scope for creative freedom.
As a pioneer in eco-friendly fashion, Stella McCartney's repurchase action undoubtedly reinforces her dedication to sustainability. In the future, she will continue to serve as the Global Ambassador for Sustainable Development, offering invaluable sustainability advice to LVMH Group and the entire fashion industry, and steering the industry towards a more environmentally friendly and ethical path.
Editor: Clarance Wang, Yu Yuan.