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Weekly Fashion Highlights | Haider Ackermann's Tom Ford Debut, UNDERCOVER's 35th Anniversary Show...

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As Paris Fashion Week unfolds, numerous brands are seizing their pivotal moments. Haider Ackermann, the newly appointed creative director of Tom Ford, has made a striking debut with a collection that stands out as one of the most eagerly awaited of the season. His masterful use of color, combined with Ford's signature sensual aesthetics, creates a stunning synergy. Meanwhile, Japanese designer Jun Takahashi commemorates the 35th anniversary of his brand UNDERCOVER, revisiting the classic avant-garde elements that have defined his illustrious career. Stay tuned for the latest insights and industry updates brought to you by REVERSIBLE this week.

Haider Ackermann's Tom Ford Debut

Tom Ford FW25 Runway Show
Tom Ford FW25 Runway Show Image credit: Courtesy of Tom Ford)

Haider Ackermann, the newly appointed creative director of Tom Ford, unveiled his eagerly awaited debut collection at Paris Fashion Week. Prior to the show, Akerman took to social media to share the topless style photos of the models, which were shot by photographer Ethan James Green, offering a tantalizing glimpse of his inaugural collection and hinting at the resurgence of Tom Ford's signature sensuality. This FW25 collection signifies a rejuvenation for Tom Ford and a renaissance for Ackermann, showcasing the distinctive styles of both designers.

The collection featured classic eveningwear, including one-shoulder dresses with daring thigh-high slits and vibrant bodysuits enhanced by bold color pairings. Ackermann remained at the forefront of color innovation, infusing a series of impeccably tailored suits with a nod to the iconic red velvet trouser suit from 1996, a hallmark of Ford's era at Gucci. Moreover, Ackermann elevated the color palette to new heights, presenting striking combinations of cobalt blue and silver, neon green and pink, and rich purples merging into chocolate browns, across a diverse range of pieces from tuxedo jackets to mohair sweaters and fringed robe coats. These high-impact color combinations are seamlessly integrated, reflecting a sophisticated aesthetic. We are thrilled about this new chapter for Tom Ford and eagerly anticipate how Ackermann will navigate this fashion house into a bold new era.

Jun Takahashi's UNDERCOVER 35th Anniversary Show

UNDERCOVER FW25 Show
UNDERCOVER FW25 Show (Image credit: NSS Mag/Getty)

UNDERCOVER's FW25 collection marks a significant milestone for Japanese designer Jun Takahashi, celebrating 35 years of his brand's innovative journey. As a luminary in the Japanese fashion landscape, Takahashi reflects on iconic designs that have defined his career. Drawing inspiration from the vibrant, inflatable, and plush artistry of Anne-Valerie Dupond, and infused with the indelible essence of Patti Smith, FW25 seeks to evoke the nostalgic charm of stuffed animals.

The presentation also unveiled UNDERCOVER's forthcoming collaboration with Champion, featuring an array of crewneck sweatshirts, cuffed trousers, and oversized hoodies in striking colors. Outerwear adorned with flying butterfly embellishments and casual pieces showcasing butterfly prints encapsulate a celebration of nature. The collection further embraces exaggerated silhouettes, with angular shoulders and bold, sculptural jackets that make a statement. Takahashi concluded the showcase with breathtaking designs, including two inflatable balloon dresses that captivated the audience, alongside dramatic feather suits that echoed avian elegance.

Balenciaga Drops Brand Ambassador Fan Club Series

Balenciaga Brand Ambassador Fan Club Series
Balenciaga Brand Ambassador Fan Club Series (Image credit: Instagram @balenciaga)

Balenciaga has consistently excelled at harnessing the power of celebrity endorsements, showcasing an array of whimsical designs. Renowned for its avant-garde interpretation of streetwear culture, the esteemed high-fashion label infuses edgy aesthetics into everyday staples. The latest Balenciaga fashion trends boldly defy conventional high-fashion standards by placing contemporary concepts at the forefront. This month, the launch of the Brand Ambassador Fan Club collection epitomizes this ethos.

This collection features striking portraits of the brand's ambassadors, including luminaries such as Kim Kardashian, Nicole Kidman, Michelle Yeoh, Isabelle Huppert, and PP Krit. Balenciaga reimagines 90s-inspired club merchandise with a collage T-shirt design that highlights each celebrity’s likeness, complemented by a distinctive font for added visual allure. To enhance its celebrity allure, each T-shirt is adorned with the autograph of its respective ambassador on the reverse side, transforming it into a coveted collectible for enthusiasts. Notably, celebrities like Kardashian have shared images of themselves donning this $825 T-shirt on their social media platforms. Would you consider acquiring a piece featuring a celebrity's portrait?

Gentle Monster x Maison Margiela's Third Collaboration

Msison Margiela x Gentle Monster 2025 Collection
Msison Margiela x Gentle Monster 2025 Collection (Image credit: Instagram @gentlemonster)

The first two collaborations have already caused a sensation. Now, Gentle Monster and Maison Margiela have ushered in the third joint effort, calling it the "biggest collaboration to date". This series not only continues Margiela's iconic deconstruction aesthetics, but also incorporates Gentle Monster's pioneering experimentalism in eyewear design. The new series revolves around the concept of "when classic elegance meets the future" and uses high-end materials to create a futuristic silhouette. In addition, the classic four white needle elements collide with retro contours and metal materials, adding a touch of unruly and artistic atmosphere to the series.

This collaboration is expected to be sold in limited quantities worldwide, further consolidating the influence of the two brands in the fashion and trend industry. The series will be released on March 6, and fans of Gentle Monster and Maison Margiela are already looking forward to this perfect blend of avant-garde and classic.

Dsquared2's 30th Anniversary Show

Dsquared2 S/S 2025 Show
Dsquared2 S/S 2025 Show (Image credit: Giovanni Giannoni/WWD)

During Milan Fashion Week in Italy, Dsquared2 marked the grand celebration of its 30th anniversary. Creative directors Dean Caten and Dan Caten transformed the runway into an unparalleled carnival party to commemorate this milestone moment.

The runway was decorated to resemble a New York street club scene, with a vehicle carrying models driving in to kick off the show. The entire runway was filled with enthusiasm and vitality, as models showcased Dsquared2's latest designs, embodying the brand's unique blend of sexiness and rebellion. This show was not only a retrospection of the brand's history but also a declaration of future innovation. Dean and Dan Caten once again proved that fashion is not just a pile of clothes but a resonance of culture, emotion, and the times. Dsquared2's 30th anniversary show will undoubtedly become a highlight of Milan Fashion Week.

Editor: Clarance Wang, Yu Yuan, Juham Lin.